Autocross Buying Guide - Select the Right Car

In my experience, autocross can be a very fun and exciting sport. I have participated in several events in my local area. I found the hobby to be very addictive as well.

Out of all my other hobbies, I think this one is the best "bang for the buck" as far as thrills go with your car. Everybody can participate. Every car (some clubs have exceptions to this though like no SUV's, no Trucks) can race. The nice thing about this kind of race is that you are competing against others in your class usually defined by the SCCA, however, you are on the course alone so there is minimal chance of hitting other cars.

I Bought The Car

The hardest part about autocross (aside from learning how to race) in my opinion is finding the right car. Sure, you can use a daily driver, but that is not recommended if you are going to participate in several events a year. Autocross can create wear on the tires and other components very quickly and can get expensive very fast. I would recommend to get a vehicle that you can use for autocross. This can be a "trailer car" or a car that you can still drive on the road, but use only for this hobby.

Autocross Buying Guide - Select the Right Car

There are 4 key components to consider when selecting a car for autocross:

1) What type of car to get
2) The Price of the car
3) The overall condition of the vehicle (if used)
4) Aftermarket upgrades/modifications

WHAT TYPE OF CAR TO GET FOR AUTOCROSS:

For autocross racing, some people would assume that the car has to be very powerful, small, 2 doors and modified. This is not entirely accurate. While that type of car would be nice, it is not required to be competitive in autocross.

Remember that most autocross events and clubs have the cars grouped in to some sort of class. The club I participate with follow the SCCA Class guidelines. The classes help group the cars so the same "level" of vehicles can remain competitive within each class.

This is done to avoid the "biggest and fastest is best" state of thought. It would be unfair to put a heavily modified Porsche GT3 up against a stock Ford Focus. This is why they do that.

So, to pick the right car for autocross, you would probably want a coupe or convertible FIRST if possible. Sedans can work well too, but some sedans are not geared for modifications, although, the sport sedans of today are really starting to take over.

Manual transmission would be recommended, however, if you have an automatic that is OK too. You may want to consider trading it for a manual in the future to remain competitive. Again, there are still "sport shift" type automatics out there that are getting better and better each day.

Ideally, you would also want a rear-wheel drive car for autocross. RWD cars typically provide better control and handling in most cases. I know some enthusiasts out there will disagree with me, but that's OK. On the other hand, I have used several front-wheel drive cars that run with the best of them.

PRICE:

The price of buying a car for autocross is always the factor for me. I, like many others, cannot afford an expensive vehicle for autocross. There are, however, those that can afford it and price is still something for them to consider.

The -00 range:

This is the range most of us beginners want to start. Of course, free is GOOD, but consider the 3rd component (overall condition) when this option comes to mind. Several cars that can perform well and have a lot of upgradable options are the following:

1989-1997 Mazda Miata - Very nice power to weight ratio. It is VERY popular at autocross. 1979-1991 Mazda RX7 - Fast small car, handles well. Many upgrades available. 1989-1998 Nissan 240sx - Several aftermarket upgrades, handles very well. 1990-1999 BMW 3 Series - Very versatile car. You can find very nice models in this range now. 1988-2000 Honda Civic/CRX - I have seen several models compete well in autocross. 1984-1999 Toyota MR2 - Low center of gravity, great performance, mid engine. 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon - Many upgrades, some models Turbo AWD. 2000-2007 Ford Focus - Very competitive cars. SVT models available in price range. 1997-2003 VW Golf - Hatchbacks always like autocross. VR6 models available in range. 1990-1999 Acura Integra - Like the Civic, very competitive with many upgrades out there.

There may be a few more cars that I missed that fall under this price range. The method I use to hunt for cars can vary depending on the type I am looking for. I will use local classified ads, Craigslist. I will also use the bigger car searches and expand my general "hunting" area. I have successfully found great cars using VEHIX, AutoTrader as well as Government Auction Sites.

But what about the autocross cars above the 00 range? Well, I am glad you are think that because I am about to list them below.

If you have some money to work with and want to get something newer, you can consider the following cars:

The ,001-,000 range:

This range can include newer cars as well as pre-owned cars that are no more than a few years old. Remember, cars usually depreciate very fast, so as the years go by, some of the newer cars can be within reach for less money and are great for autocross. The cars below come to mind in this range:

1998-Current Mazda MX-5 - Still same basic car, but more power as they got newer. 2003-Current VW Golf - Even more modified than the previous versions, compete well. 1992-1997 Mazda RX7 - 3rd Gen is twin-turbo and can compete in autocross. 1992-2006 BMW M3 - M3's are designed for racing. Some newer models will fall in this range. 1998-2003 BMW M5 - M5's are very powerful and compete in their class well. 1994-Current Ford Mustang/Cobra - Very versatile car. Competes well in class. 1994-2002 Camaro/Firebird - Competes well in class. Many autocross upgrades. 2007-Current Mazda Mazdaspeed3 - Turbo, hatchback, competes well in autocross. 2003-2008 Nissan 350z - Great autocross car, very popular on the track. Special Autocross Kit cars such as the V6 Stalker fall in this range as well.

Now, this price range can vary in vehicles. A lot of these cars are still new and may require loans to purchase them.

The ,001 spectrum will consist of some of the current-day models as well as the obvious "super cars" we all respect such as the Corvette, Viper, Porsche, Ferrari, Lotus and others. I will not include a list for those because if you are buying one of those for an autocross car, you did your research.

OVERALL CONDITION OF THE VEHICLE (USED):

When buying a second car for autocross, treat it like when you are buying your daily driver car. You want the car to be relatively free of major problems. Autocross racing can put stress on the car's frame, the suspension, the brakes, the tire and the overall body of the car.

You want to be sure that the car has not been in any major accidents. Frame repair or frame damage can be very dangerous mixture when you autocross. That is the MOST important thing to check for when buying a car for autocross. I have experienced and used the service by Experian called AutoCheck. They offer an unlimited number of VIN checks for one of their service options and the price is way better than the other services out there. I have used it when shopping and comes in very handy when you are checking the history of a vehicle.

The next important item to check on the car is major component problems such as smoke coming out of the back of the exhaust, major oil leaks (small leaks are expected on most used cars) slight/major overheating of the engine. Autocross is outside and you push the car to the limit. You want the major components to be in the best shape they can be. The mentioned problems can leave you stranded at the track if you do not look out for them.

I usually have some expectation to do minor repair or preventive repairs on my vehicles when I am buying to autocross them. As I stated above, small oil/fluid leaks are "OK" and can usually be fixed very easily. Small leaks tell us that the car is just used and may not be suffering from the leak as a result. Large/major leaks tell us the car may have been neglected by the previous owner and may carry residual problems unseen at the moment. When looking at a car, start it up, drive it around with the A/C engaged (even if it doesn't work). When you are finished with the test drive, leave it idling while you walk around the car continuing to inspect it. If the car has an overheating problem, often this is the time it will show. This tip has helped me avoid several beautiful autocross cars that had an overheating problem.

Belts and hoses are my most frequent "preventive" repair I do, even if they are not a problem. It is always best to know when an important component has been replaced rather than to "guess" and trust the previous owner. Water pumps, too, fall in this category sometimes.

One thing people always check when buying a used car are the tires. Yes, this is important for an autocross car, but not to see how "good" the tires are, but to see if the car needs an alignment. Autocross is about handling and you need to be sure the car's stock "handling" ability is where it should be.

Why not worry about the tires? Well, tires should be one thing to consider buying for your autocross car to begin with, so the existing tires should be removed anyway. Tires are probably the most bought wear item an autocross member will buy. A lot of autocross racers will bring a set of tires for racing, one for driving home (those who do not use a trailer) and some will even bring spares for the racing tires. This is so common that Tire Rack offers tires just for autocross. I have used them and they are the best place to get tires for this.

AFTERMARKET MODIFICATIONS FOR AUTOCROSS:

If you ever look into the aftermarket world of the auto industry, you know that there are literally thousands of places to look and buy. I will list a few spots that most people do not think to look, but surprisingly have things for the autocross fans.

First and foremost, autocross cars do NOT always need major upgrades to be competitive. A driver can use a stock vehicle and compete against fellow stock vehicles and remain competitive. Once you start to modify or upgrade heavily, you may start to move into different classes and compete with other cars that are equally modified. Keep that in mind when you want to change something.

Usually, I say modify the easy things first: Intake, exhaust and general tune ups. Most autocross drivers do not go far from that. These should be the first things you try to upgrade while you participate in autocross to get the most performance out of your vehicle.

If you decide to go further to be more competitive, my next recommendation would be suspension and body roll modifications. Please remember, certain upgrades in this area may change your class. Be sure to check your club or groups rules with these modifications.

Usually, the fastest upgrade to an autocross car would be front and rear strut tower bars/braces. They are usually inexpensive to buy and easy to install. They are also very modular meaning that when you buy these, they will work with other suspension components in place (usually). This modification helps stiffen the car's suspension and frame and helps with cornering.

The next modification recommendation would then be the front and rear sway bars and links. These parts also help the body roll while cornering and handling and can sometimes be modular to the suspension system as a whole.

The final suspension upgrade is usually the most expensive: The struts (shocks/springs). This upgrade usually works well with the above items, but ads more stiffness, more response to the handling and sometimes lower the car overall for a lower center of gravity.

Once you have modified the entire suspension, my next recommendation would be to upgrade the brakes (at least the pads). This will help your stopping ability for those moments where a tap of the brake is needed during a lap. Please keep in mind that high performance brake pads usually wear much quicker than OEM.

One of the last things I recommend to upgrade is the tires. Now, I'm not saying that you should not FIRST buy new tires when you autocross, but I am saying not to UPGRADE them to an autocross/race tire just yet. Most autocross enthusiasts will tell you to get used to the stock/regular tires on your car first.

Once you get used to stock type tires, modifying them to a race tire or softer tire will actually improve your lap times (that's the theory anyway).

One last note. I recommend replacing the fluids in your car with as many synthetics as you can. Synthetic fluids have higher heat resistance and can take the intense moments you will be putting on the car during the autocross laps.

Autocross Buying Guide - Select the Right Car

How to Find Bank Repo Cars and What You Should Know About Buying Bank Repo Cars

More and more people are looking for bank repo cars nowadays. We have heard of how we can get cheap vehicles by buying those repossessed by banks or other financial institutions. We have also heard of how some are sold for as low as 10% of their current store value. However, to categorically benefit from this source of cheap vehicles, one must know 2 things: where to find them and what to look out for.

Bank repo cars - How to find them

We Buy Any Car

The repossessed vehicles are typically auctioned off in whether communal auctions or dealers' auctions. The latter requires participants to possess a dealer's license. Such auctions are sometimes advertised on local newspapers. Spend a few minutes each day flipping straight through classified ads and you may just spot one or two. Someone else way to find out about these auctions on bank repo cars is by calling the banks. This will take a wee more time and Pr skill as not all the employees may have the information and you may have to speak to dissimilar people to ultimately get to the right man to talk to. Finally, you can use online services to crusade for bank repo cars put up for sale or auctions in your area. Most of these services fee a one-time membership fee and are able to furnish you with modern information on these sales.

How to Find Bank Repo Cars and What You Should Know About Buying Bank Repo Cars

What you should look out for
There are many things that one needs to be aware of when participating in such sales or auctions. We may not be able to cover all here but just to give you an idea of the more prominent things to note:

1. health and history of the vehicle. Bank repo cars are repossessed in a range of ways, sometimes, without the owners' pre-knowledge. And depending on how the former owner takes care of the car, the health of these vehicles varies. Some auctions have a preview duration when you can check out the cars you have in mind. Bring along a mechanic if you are not so customary with car inspection. Also, you should get a car history record using Carfax. The record will tell you many details such as any former accidents or repairs done to the vehicle. You may need to spend some money on these but trust me, it is well worth it in the long run.

2. Setting a budget and stick to it. Some people ended up overbidding on a car because they didn't set a concrete budget beforehand. A good guideline that I will use is the wholesale price of the car minus the cost of some minor refurbishing that might be needed for the vehicle.

3. Read the fine prints. It is all the time wise to check for any inexpressive costs or warranty issues before you even start bidding on bank repo cars.

How to Find Bank Repo Cars and What You Should Know About Buying Bank Repo Cars

Buying a Car at a Southern California Auto Auction

What could be great then cruising to the beach in your brand new car you just purchased at a southern California auto auction? Knowing you saved some thousands dollars compared to what you would have paid if you bought your new car at a dealer may make your touch that much greater. And that's the whole point of buying a car at an auction, recovery money.

If you've never attended an auction but are intrigued with the idea you do need to be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of purchasing a car at one. You don't want to rush into your nearest auto auction without knowing what to expect. This can be a good way to end up with a car you may not have indeed wanted.

We Buy Any Car

The first thing most auction beginners want to know is why are the vehicles offered are so cheap. Most of the vehicles are being auctioned off because they have been whether repossessed by a lender or they were seized by federal or local law obligation agencies as a ensue of a criminal investigation and arrest. These vehicles take up space and cost money to store, therefore those institutions that find themselves overrun with cars, trucks, and Suvs want to plainly cover the cost of processing these vehicles and sell them off to the lowest bidder.

Buying a Car at a Southern California Auto Auction

If you are thinking of attending an auto auction in southern California here are some advantages and disadvantages to take into consideration. First we'll look at the advantages.

1. Cheap cars - This, of course, is the whole reckon of buying a vehicle at auction. The starting bids are very low and most population drive away with a car that they purchased for some thousands less then it is worth. In many cases population save up to 90% off what they would pay at their local car dealer.

2. Slightly used cars - Many of the vehicles being offered are relatively new and in good shape. In fact there may be cases where you can find cars less then a year old that have been small used. You will also be able to find all makes and models.

3. Car histories should be provided by the auction assistance - This ensures that the car you select to bid on and hopefully buy has a clear title and has not been previously damaged.

4. Ownership - When you place a winning bid you will need to pay the full amount. But once you have made payment you own the car outright with the title in the glove box.

Some disadvantages to buying an automobile at auction.

1. All vehicles are sold "as is" - This means once you pay for the car it and any problems it has is all yours. There is no warranty or warrant with auctioned cars and you can't return it.

2. Beginners up against tough competition - If this is your first auto auction be forewarned that you will be up against auction veterans who are very experienced at assessing and bidding on cars. If you can find a friend or family member who is customary with car auctions to go with you and help you work straight through the process.

3. Your time - Taking the time to study the cars or cars you are concerned in is an leading part of the process. There is also the time required to fill out the critical paper work and traveling to and participating in the auction. This is where the online auction services can be helpful. They supply one stop data about auction dates, catalogues of vehicles being auctioned, study feature that let you check on a cars past history, and in many cases the capability to bid online.

A southern California auto auction can be a great way to save money on your next ride. If you take your time to do the permissible study you will soon find yourself cruising to the beach in your brand new car.

Buying a Car at a Southern California Auto Auction

Remote Car Starter Buying Guide

My store has been installing Remote Car Starters since the early 1990s. This caress has taught us what is important in a ability remote starter installation. With the cold season practically upon us, we plan it would be a good time to post our Top 10 List (in no particular order):

10. Warranty

We Buy Any Car

The actual remote starter brain should be warrantied for as long as you own the car. Many ability associates offer this. If they do not, it is a potential sign of inferior equipment. Remote controls, however are rarely warrantied for more than a year. Our Pro line remotes carry a 2 year warranty and all our 2 way remotes have a exchange plan.

Remote Car Starter Buying Guide

9. Engine Speed Sensing

A good remote starter should have some formula of monitoring the Engine Rpm's. Why is this important? There are a consolidate reasons:

* On a very cold day, the car might not start on the first turn of the key. The same is true with a remote starter. It might not start the first time the starter does it's thing. Without a formula of sensing Engine Rpm's the remote starter will have no way of knowing that the vehicle has failed to start. The end ensue is that you go out to your car and it is still cold.

* The other main fancy is over-rev protection. A ability remote starter will know if the Engine speed is too high and shut off. A remote start that does not offer Rpm sensing cannot know if this level is exceeded and could end with damage to the vehicle.

8. Transmitter Range

You want to make sure that the remote start that you are buying will allow you to start/stop/lock/unlock, etc from a long distance. Many population say that they just park their car right surface of their house and do not need a long rang transmitter. Just keep in mind the trips to the movies, the mall, the amusement park, etc. You will want to use your remote start then also and you will not be parked as close as at home. Our transmitters offer a minimum of 800 feet and some are over a mile!

7. Hood safety Switch

Make sure that there is an emergency cutoff installed under the hood. This cutoff is designed to preclude the vehicle from remote starting if the hood is up. This protects you and your mechanic from forever having man else open your ketchup bottles! Do Not Overlook This! Many shops skip this step because it saves time. Mobile Edge integrates a hood cutoff on every particular job.

6. Manufacturer

Make sure that the constructor is a firm that specializes in remote car starters. There are many associates out there that plainly throw a label on a goods and call it their own. You want to avoid that. It is our caress that these associates supply small if any reserve for their products and many will not be in firm next year. Stick with the experts.

5. New Car Warranty

Do not let your car dealer tell you that an aftermarket remote car starter will void your warranty . This is against the law. The Magnuson Moss Act prevents a dealer from voiding a warranty plainly because of the addition of aftermarket equipment. If that tool or related factory causes damage to the vehicle, the dealer does not have to warranty the job. This is more of a fancy to go to a scholar shop that sell good remote starters and installs them professionally. I have a detailed Pdf on this subject.

4. Do it Yourself?

Unless you are a certified technician with caress in remote car starter installation, Do Not exertion to setup your own remote starter. I know... The one you saw at WalMart comes with an instructional video. That video will teach you sufficient to make you dangerous. Trust me! It will not teach you how to consolidate the transponder in a 2004 Ford or bypass the safety in an 06 Trailblazer. The instructional video may have worked in the early 1990's, but today's cars are very sophisticated. Save yourself a ton of cost and ill and have it installed by man who does this for a living and can be responsible for the job. This brings us to whole 3.

3. Buy it Here / setup it There?

Do not buy your remote starter on eBay (or WalMart or Amazon, etc) and expect to find a quality, reputable shop that will setup it for you. While many aftermarket shops will setup stereos and amps purchased elsewhere, few if any will setup a remote start purchased elsewhere. while remote starter season, the good shops are busy sufficient trying to keep up with their own work. If you find a shop that will setup man else's remote starter, they are likely not very busy. Do you want to trust your vehicle to that guy?

There is an additional one very important fancy not to buy a remote starter at one place and have it installed at another. Let's say something goes wrong. A remote starter is an electronic goods and can fail. The guy that puts it in will blame the goods and the constructor will say that it was installed wrong. Guess who is stuck in the middle with no recourse. When you have the shop that you buy a remote starter from setup it, you have one place to go in the event of a failure. There cannot be any finger pointing.

2. Go to a Specialist

Look for a specialty shop. Not to bash any of the chain stores, but they have a much higher turnover rate with installers than a specialty shop. These are population that likely have less caress than a long term laborer at a specialty shop. It is my caress that many installer "cut their teeth" at a chain store and, once they have more experience, move on to a scholar (We pay more!).

Many specialists (not all though) will solder all of their connections. I feel that this is very important. Crimp connectors can save up to an hour of factory time, but when dealing with the vehicle's electrical system, I want a rock solid connection. The only way to get that is by soldering the wires together. Mobile Edge has soldered every association on every job for nearly 15 years.

Will a remote starter from a specialty shop cost more than from a chain store? Sometimes yes. But put that into perspective. Even if the job cost 0 more from a specialist, that inequity is less than 1/10 of 1% of what you probably paid for your car. Why take the risk. Not to mention, when you deal with a specialist, you can talk to the installer, salesman and, in many cases, the owner. There is absolutely a value in that.

1. More than Just a Remote Starter

Make sure that you describe all of the convenience features that can be added to your remote starter with your salesperson before the installation! Most higher ability remote starters will allow a ton of cool features to be added or controlled from the remote. Whatever from heated seats to keyless entry and rear defrost can be integrated with most better systems. It is A Lot cheaper to have this done at the time of installation. If you want to add it later, you may be paying for any hours of supplementary labor.

The bottom Line

In summary, the cheapest price does not always save you money! When choosing a shop to have a remote starter put in, ask a lot of questions. How long have they been in business? How much caress do their technicians have? Do they have sophisticated computer programs to aid with installation? How do they cope warranty issues? You get the idea. The better shops will clearly rise to the top. They might cost a small more up front, but that extra cost will pay dividends in ability and piece of mind. I am sure that you will find that Mobile Edge is one of the best shops for your Remote Car Starter Installation.

Remote Car Starter Buying Guide

Tips for Buying a Used Rust Proofed Car From a Dealership

Buying used cars can be a risky enterprise but makes sense for many habitancy seeing to save money. The main advantage to buying used over new is that you can potentially get more for your money. New cars not only cost more but all cars depreciate in value over time. They begin to lose value shortly after you drive them off the forecourt. Buying used is not only cheaper initially but means you can buy the model you want with less financial loss in the long term. Buying from a used car dealership is probably the best route to ensure that the short term cost does not lead to expensive mistakes. Either buying from a dealership or confidentially there are a whole of things that you can in effect check for yourself to save problem sooner or later.

General condition

We Buy Any Car

Tyres: The tyre health is prominent and can give clues to any problems with the wheel alignment. If the tyres have uneven wear this is most likely to be the source of the problem. Also check the tread depth and for rust on the wheel arches. Steering and gears: The steering wheel should operate smoothly, without vibration while driving and the gears should change without grinding. A weak or hard clutch indicates damaged or worn components. Engine: The machine needs to sound even and flat when idling and revs should also sound even. If the machine is badly worn you will find immoderate smoke generated when revving the car. Mileage: A low mileage may look great on an older car but this could be a follow of 'clocking'. Wear and tear on the upholstery and interior is often a good indication as to how much the car has in effect been used.

Rust problems

Rust prevention is far best than rust treatment. Once rust has a hold it is very difficult to stop so it's prominent to conduct a appropriate check of the most vulnerable areas. Check for chipped bodywork and pay close concentration to the underside, wheel arches as well as inside the boot and machine cavity. Damage to paint work or rust inside the machine cavity may indicate that a heal has been made after an crisis so ask detailed questions. If the machine cavity is sparklingly clean think if this has been done to hide problems. Cars that have been re-sprayed may be hiding small lumps of filler where rust treatments have been attempted so check the body thoroughly.

When buying a used car from a dealership the chances are that the car has been completely checked for problems and work undertaken to rectify them. Always ask to see the documents as a registration certificate confirms the car is not stolen. By conducting your own checks you can ensure that this is the case and if you have any concerns discuss them with the dealer - especially in relation to the price! Rust can be a small but requisite qoute with used cars so if in doubt once you've sealed the deal it can be worthwhile applying a new layer of rust proofing to the car - to ensure that the trade price you've paid remains a bargain.

Tips for Buying a Used Rust Proofed Car From a Dealership

Buying Pre-Owned Car Stereo Online

Buying new products is curious and quite easy because it is all about selecting and buying. But buying pre-owned products is pretty tough if you are not aware of the features of the product properly. It is particularly so in the case of electronic products which are quite sophisticated. For example, while buying a pre-owned car stereo you need to be aware of determined dos and don'ts. In the following passage, you will hear about a few things that are regularly done or should be done before opting for a pre-owned car stereo.

The first thing that we regularly do is to look for the single type of component that we want in the newspapers, magazines, catalogues, and sale fliers. The next step is contacting the market or persons selling the pre-owned car stereo. Then come tasks like visiting them, checking the product, etc. These processes are not easy ones because today the shop is full of pre-owned products and most of the time it becomes nothing else but difficult and confusing going through the long research.

We Buy Any Car

The best explication to buy it without any trouble or blurring is to buy pre-owned car stereos online. There are ample online trading companies and communities that sell pre-owned car stereos. Moreover, there are sites which will not only guide you concerning these kinds of car stereos but will also help you with the data about the persons owning the product.

It is a well-known fact that if you opt for buying a new or branded car stereo system, it will be of great quality. But it will without fail cost more. Now, pre-owned car stereo has a vital advantage over a new car stereo, that is, the price. So, if you are planning to buy a car stereo which befits a tight budget, then this is the best option. Buying pre-owned car stereo would obviously save a lot of money. Infact, if you can shop well, you can get a high-end car stereo theory at a much lower price. And moreover the online shopping process will not only save your money and vigor but it is very fast too. There the whole transaction will be over in no time.

Buying pre-owned car stereo online is basically trouble free. But as a buyer you have lots of responsibilities concerning the whole process beginning from research, choice and buying. In this case, however, your first job is to perform the research properly using the online resources. This is important to make sure about your knowledge concerning the product and its features. Secondly, you must not get attracted to the big brands ready at low price, until and unless you try out or check the products. A clear verification of the pre-owned car stereo is necessary, also to ensure about the health of the product claimed by the online company, site or seller.

However, during your research for buying pre-owned car stereo offline or online, you ought to be aware of the capacity of your vehicle. That means, your car should be capable of handling the single theory you are going to buy. There are online companies that supply free advice. Therefore if you want to get more data about the product and want to clear your doubts, you can talk to an audio specialist.

Buying Pre-Owned Car Stereo Online

Things to consider When Buying a Cheap Used Car

Getting a cheap used car can be a great experience, or can be a very horrible one. It all depends on whether or not you're willing to do the study beforehand to keep hunting out the best deal. Now we have the Internet, you can positively quest online for great deals on cars. You can positively find all the good ones in your normal area and go seek them out. positively though, he'll have the best luck by searching in the biggest city that's closest to you. You will find in the option and the best deals. Once you do that, you need to experience the owner.

It's very leading that you check up on the actual car itself before you buy. No matter what the owner says, no matter how trustable they seem, you need to check the facts. Online services like Carfax allow you to check the history of the car. It is good to get a trial account there just to check up on a few cars. Doing this will make a huge inequity because you will have the peace of mind in knowing that the car wasn't in any huge accidents that positively sway the body. Once you do this, you can positively buy with confidence.

We Buy Any Car

Now, how you pay for the car is a distinct story. If you have the cash to pay up front, this is the best option. If not, you need to go get a loan from somewhere, whether it's a bank or prestige union of some sort. They will write you a check that you can give to the owner. When you take this check to the owner, you'll pay them with it. Then they will be out of transaction. Then, you'll have a payment plan with the bank or the prestige union to pay off the remaining cost of the car. It positively is that uncomplicated to do.

Things to consider When Buying a Cheap Used Car

Buying Nascar Diecast Collectibles From eBay

A lot of die-hard NASCAR fans these days are collecting their favorite drivers' cars in the form of diecast miniatures. Just about every NASCAR driver has been represented in the various collections, with more coming out every season. One great way to get your collections started is to purchase your NASCAR collectibles through eBay.

All of the most popular drivers are represented on eBay, including the late "Intimidator" Dale Earnhardt Sr., Dale Earnhardt Jr., the ever-popular Jeff Gordon, Jeff Burton, Bobby Labonte, Tony Stewart, and Mark Martin. You can find a wide variety of diecast collectibles for each of these drivers and more on eBay.

We Buy Any Car

If you are new to eBay, it is essential that you first familiarize yourself with the bidding and purchasing system. You'll also need to understand feedback, shipping, return policies, insurance and payment methods. Once you have that out of the way, it's time to figure out what cars you want and how to find them.

eBay is very easy to navigate. You'll first have to go through the "Toys & Hobbies" portal, then click on "Diecast, Toy Vehicles", followed by "Cars, Trucks-Diecast", and finally "NASCAR". From there you can start perusing all the different cars available. If you don't want to manually search through the dozens of cars, you can use the "Search" function at the top of the page to look for a specific car.

Another facet you need to familiarize yourself with before diving into NASCAR collectibles is the lingo associated with the hobby. As you will discover, abbreviations and acronym are an intrinsic part of eBay buying and selling, and NASCAR collectibles are no exception. As with every hobby, there are also a number of terms that have been simplified due to their common usage. You will need to understand that MFG means "manufacturer", i.e. who made the collectible, that H/O means "hood opens, i.e. the collectible's hood opens up, that B/W means "black window", i.e. the interior of the vehicle cannot be seen, and that C/W means "clear window", i.e. the interior can be seen.

You will also need to understand scale. Scale represents the proportion of the collectible in comparison to the real vehicle. 1/64 scale is the smallest scale and the cars measure about 3 inches long - the size of most Matchbox cars. 1/24 scale vehicles are very popular and measure about 8 inches long. 1/18 scale is the largest and most detailed scale, but its sheer size (and therefore increased cost) cause many people to not collect cars of this scale.

As any die-hard collector knows, it is imperative that you understand the value of your collection. eBay is a great way to keep track of the running value of cars you already have and cars you are looking for. Trends tend to develop in the eBay market rather quickly and tend to stick to fair market value. After all, if you overprice items, you are not likely to sell them. Also, you must take steps to protect your collection. Never keep your cars in direct sunlight and keep them away from extreme heat and humidity. Give your insurance company a call, they may even allow you to insure your collection.

Hopefully this puts you on the right track towards establishing your own NASCAR diecast collection. eBay is a great place to get started, as long as you exercise caution and deal with trustworthy sellers. Play it smart and you can find some great deals that will give your collection a head start.

Buying Nascar Diecast Collectibles From eBay

How To Really Save Big Money On Buying A Used Car

Yes, it is better to buy a used car than a new car. You save on depreciation, taxes and insurance. Most people do not realize that, although a vehicle is necessary, it is also the worst investment possible as it depreciates 20 to 30 percent in value the moment a new car is driven off the dealers lot. Take advantage of someone else by buying a slightly used car (1-3 years old with 10,000 to 30,000 miles). Let someone else pay that ridiculous depreciation. Besides with all the recent improvements in cars of all makes and models it is not uncommon for a car to run to 200,000 miles.

It used to be that back in the 80s a import would run 100,000 to 150,000 miles and a domestic like Ford or GM was good until 80,000 to 100,000 miles and then it was time to junk it. With recent improvements it is not uncommon for a car to reach 150,000 miles plus of any make. When you equip this with the fact that most states have a rather high sales tax, property tax or combination thereof that is directly related to the value of the car, a used car with a lower value becomes a more attractive option. Even insurance is lower on used cars. So with all the savings in buying used versus new, should you pay the asking price at your local used car dealer?

We Buy Any Car

Absolutely not. Having experience as one of the top car salesman in the entire country, I can definitely explain how a used car dealership makes money and exactly how much they will profit off of a sale. The basic rule of thumb is that for every ,000 in price there is at least ,000 in markup or profit. So, in a ,000 car the asking price includes around ,000 in dealer markup (profit). On top of that there is a dealer processing fee that almost every dealer charges (average of 0 to 0 per car). The so called dealer processing fee is just pure gravy or profit to the dealer. The processing fee came about as a way to generate non commissionable profit (profit that the dealer did not pay a percentage of to the salesman). Basically, the dealer processing fee has nothing to do with any processing and is a scam (do not pay it and if they refuse to remove it go elsewhere. If enough people do this they will remove the bogus fee).

Now, there can be costs that the dealer has in detailing, servicing, etc to the car. These are usually minimal and always ask for documentation for anything they say. For instance, if the dealer says we had a whole new brake system put into that car and it cost over ,000. That may be true, but it probably is not. The actual service records will probably show 0 or so. If they will not show you the actual service records leave and look for another dealer. This means they are hiding something.
So, now you know how they markup their cars, but first you must understand that there are some very honest and reputable dealers, but there are 10 times that many that are extremely dishonest. Here are some definite rules that you must follow.

1) Drive the vehicle. Do not take their word for anything. Drive it. Take it for the day and drive it on the highway, curvy roads and in stop and go traffic. Use it like you normally would. This will reveal problems or items that need to be looked into or fixed.

2) Always, after you have settled on a car that meets your needs, take it to an independent mechanic. This is not as important on low mileage 1-3 year old cars, but vitally important on older cars with higher mileage. The independent mechanic or shop will give you a complete run down for about that will reveal everything about the car and whether or not it is a good deal or a nightmare waiting to happen.

3) Run a Carfax report. This can reveal previous accident and or flood damage, but it does not over rule the independent mechanic. Sometimes a mechanic will find things a Carfax did not report like a flood or car accident. Not all accidents and flood damage are correctly reported.

4) Always negotiate the purchase price. Never let them switch you to payments until you have agreed to a price. It amazes me how many people are easily switched to payments where they have no idea what the purchase price and profit or markup are. Most do not even know the term or rate before they commit. They just want you to commit and then the finance manager befriends you and takes even more money out of your pocket. At most dealerships the front end profit averages around 00 on a used car and the back end or finance office profit averages around 00. This money comes from one source the consumer.

5) Negotiate. Do your homework. Be ready to walk and look elsewhere if the dealer will not be reasonable. Look into separate financing. What most people do not realize is that a home equity loan could save you huge on rate and interest. A car dealer as a rule adds 2 to 3% to the actual rate for profit and they call it their convenience for providing a service (as I saw on a CarMax sign and do not think Carmax will save you money with their no haggle price. A simple comparison will prove this). In California they have created laws and legislation to curb this practice or limit it. Always ask the finance manager for the approval rate and proof. The banks will each fax over an approval. If the rate is too high then walk.

6) An even better alternative is to buy your car online. I recently bought a GMC envoy through Ebay and got a better price than I could have at a dealer only auction. I paid about 00 less than what the dealers actual cost would be on this vehicle. I also did not pay any bogus processing fee. When I drove by some local dealers and showed them the car and told them what I paid they said it was impossible until I showed them the bill of sale, title and paperwork. Now several of these dealers are buying their own cars online and through Ebay. It is important to note that you must do your research online and delve deeply into the car, the sellers feedback and transaction history, email questions that you have, and look into price and listing histories for the make, year and model of car or truck you are interested in. Watch out for processing fees and such (they are all listed clearly). The best thing about buying online is you control the price, no back end profit for the dealer, and you save big!

How big can you save online? I saved over ,000 off of what local dealers were asking for the same envoy and mine had even more options. The best deal on a used car is to avoid the dealer completely and buy it online. You can find your own financing regardless if you have good or bad credit and save a ton. If you must go to a dealer, never fall in love with any car. The dealer will use this to their advantage. Use the steps above and give them a fair offer. You want to end up at 0 over their cost and that is reasonable. I have seen profits of upwards of ,500 or more on one vehicle worth ,000. That is sickening. The average dealer profit is ,500 to 3,000 per used car. Do not get taken by a used car dealer. Do your homework and compare. Not only will you save just from buying a used car, but you will save for years on things like term, rate, interest, taxes, etc. The average American works too hard to fork over one or two months earning to the dealer for profit.

How To Really Save Big Money On Buying A Used Car

Classic Cars - A Guide to Buying Online

Buying a Classic Car requires thought, research and some planning. Classic cars are usually bought by enthusiasts to use and enjoy. It is not easy to make a profit from buying and selling classic cars.

Make a project plan and do your best to stick to it

We Buy Any Car

You may see a tempting classic car restoration project listed in a newspaper or classic car magazine or on the Internet that may only be one or two thousand to buy and could be worth ten times as much once it is restored.

Practically though, have you the skills to carry out the restoration of the chassis, engine, interior, and the exterior ? If you need to find a specialist company to undertake some or all the work your ten times buy price may just come down to zero or very little profit indeed. Indeed in many cases the cost of restoration when added together will exceed the market value of the car. If you plan to keep the car and enjoy using it then this is perhaps an acceptable price to pay but do not expect to be able to sell the car at a profit particularly in todays "credit crunch" economy.

Before you start looking - do you have enough storage space ? Do you have enough working area (remember once stripped down, the bits can take up an awful lot of space). No old car likes to be kept out in the open, not even with a plastic sheet to protect it from the rain, frost and snow and even the worst masochist won't like working out in the open when it is blowing a gale! Lying on a cold concrete garage floor is bad enough but working outside in all elements usually puts a restoration project on hold permanently ! 

Where to look for your classic car.

Look in the your local newspaper, classic car magazines, the Internet or even just take a stroll down your street. There is no shortage of old cars to buy. But what if you are looking for something special? Well, let's face it, these days the easiest place to look is on the Internet.

Go to Classic Lots (link below) and you will find thousands of classic cars from a rusty Mini for £100 to a Ferrari for £500,000. This excellent site also includes all the classic cars available on Ebay.

Once you have identified the car that you want, read between the lines and look at the background of the pictures.You can learn a lot from what is not said as well as the way a description is written.

I am always cautious when it says "selling it for a friend" and yet there is no contact number for the friend so you can make personal contact. When the subject of mileage is omitted from the specification box and the description... why?

Keeping in touch with reality is essential. IF IN DOUBT - CHECK IT OUT!!!! Answer those niggling questions. In the pictures you can see what looks like oil on the ground. Is it from the car you are buying? Is that mud or rust?

Ask yourself four questions. Why do I want the car? How much can I really afford? How far do I want to travel to view or collect it? and then the most important question of all... Do I really know enough about these cars to commit X thousands of pounds on a piece of pretty (or perhaps rusty metal)?

So, buying a classic car on an online auction? Well, I would advise you to adopt the following rules before commencing such an undertaking, and before you make a bid !

Remember if you are the highest bidder (assuming if there is a reserve that it has been met ) and you win the auction then you have entered a legal contract to buy that vehicle (providing the seller has described the vehicle correctly).

Do not expect to go to collect the car and having viewed it to be able to haggle over the price or to walk away. Buyer beware, and if at all possible always view the car in person before you place your bids. If do not feel confident in being able to asses the condition of your prospective purchase take along someone who has the skills to give you an honest opinion of the condition of the vehicle. You may also wish to consider using the AA or RAC who both provide professional pre-purchase inspections - if the seller seems reluctant to allow this inspection walk away !

Viewing the car before bidding

If you have decided to go and see the car then arrange a viewing and if for any reason you can't make it, let the seller know, it's only courteous not to waste their time just as you don't want them wasting your time.

Things to take: a jack, perhaps some axle stands for safety, a torch, gloves and at the very least, a list of points you want to look at.

When you get there take a quick look around. Has the car been kept outside or has it been garaged, this can give you a good indication of the condition you can expect of the body and or chassis. Are there other rotting hulks just lying around, maybe the seller just buys any old junk they can find and try selling it on, not much chance of the car you have come to see having had a service any time recently.

Take a walk around the car and look for the tell tale signs of sagging which could indicate suspension problems or perhaps chassis problems. Do the doors and panels line up correctly, another indication of chassis problems or perhaps the car has had a bump at some time. Is it even one car or was it once two? Any repairs? Have they been completed well or have the repairs been bodged? Do the tyres match? What condition are they in? Check for rot in the body or in fibre glass cars/panels, look for stress cracks. Check the areas which are most prone to rot ie. arches, sills, doors, boot and bonnet. There are many different types of panels that can be used to effect repairs on a car and because of this the quality of repairs can vary.

Check inside the car. Windows, front and rear screen, are any of them leaking? Is the headlining damaged or dirty? Lift the carpets where you can, check for water and any rot, maybe even holes in the floor? Check the floorpan and joints, don't forget inside the boot, the floor and spare wheel area. If you are happy so far with the body etc. try the engine (you did check all around the engine compartment didn't you?). Will the engine start from cold? If the engine is already warm perhaps the seller is trying to hide something, maybe cold starting problems, maybe he had to get a jump start or a tow just to get it going? Listen for any knocks, look for smoke. If you see blue smoke on startup that quickly clears it could mean the valves are tired and leaking oil into the combustion chambers. If the smoke does not clear that could indicate a very tired engine, something that will have to be added to the budget, not only for investigation but for the repairs.

Clouds of steam on startup could indicate a blown head gasket or even a cracked cylinder head. Remove the radiator cap and look for "goo". It is cross contamination and a good giveaway of cylinder head problems. Black smoke, probably just an over rich mixture but could just as easily be a worn carburetter.

Knocking. Well, it could be for a number of reasons, light tapping on the top of the engine could be a worn camshaft or a small end on its way out. Knocking from underneath could be a big end bearing breathing its last. An expensive repair. A rumbling noise could be a main crank shaft bearing on its way out, yet another expensive repair. Check the various hydraulic fluids and water levels. Look for any stains around the compartment and on the engine. Does the radiator smell of anti-freeze? Is there any oil lying around? Not a good sign. Keep the engine running for a while, some problems won't show up until the engine is warm. If the car is driveable, take it for a spin. How does it "feel" on the road, does it "pull" to the right or left? Is the clutch "spongy" or firm? Does braking throw the car into oncoming traffic? (eek!) Wiggle the steering wheel, any clunks? When you accelerate does the car lurch in any particular direction?

OK so far so good. Now, the car may be 20 or 30 years old so it is not going to have all original parts. Brake shoes, clutch, spark plugs, points etc.. if they are the original parts, they are not going to be working very well by now! But seriously, if you are looking at an older car, does it have any of the original panels? Is the interior original? These points can add value to the car but the seller may try to pass off parts which were made last year in China as "original parts".

Check the paper work. Does it have all of the required paperwork with it? Check the logbook, a very good place to start and don't be fobbed of with "We have just moved house and can't find it at the moment, I will post it on to you..". Never buy a vehicle without a logbook unless you know exactly what you are doing. It is also useful to have any old MOT certificates and any receipts are good as well.  

Valuing classic cars.

How much to pay? Well, the actual value of a classic car will vary considerably. It depends on condition, make, model, year and of course, what is it worth to you? Just how much would you pay to have that special car sitting on your drive at home?

Be realistic! Just because you can isn't a good enough reason to buy a chassis of a 1926 Rolls Royce if you have no idea where to get the rest of the car and no idea of what to do with the parts if you can get them. Providing you followed the advice above on checking the car over, you should have a good idea of whether you are bidding for a car you can drive away or one that will take months before it even has wheels.

If you read the magazines, talked to the owners club and browsed the Internet to get a good idea of what your aimed for car is selling for, then you should have a price in mind that you will pay for the car depending on its condition.

Most classic car insurance policies include an agreed value based on the market value of the car. At the end of the day, it is up to you and your budget. If you feel happy with what you have paid for your car then that is all that matters.

The basic rules for Internet Auctions.

Identify what you want - and have some idea how much you want to pay. Set a budget

only you know what you can afford to spend, or borrow. Use classic car magazine price guides and real adverts to see what your classic will cost to buy. Ideally hold back 10 percent to cover any unexpected problems. Calculate running costs by looking at mpg figures. Get insurance quotes: classic cars can be covered on cost-effective limited-mileage policies and are often surprisingly cheap to insure. Remember also that pre 1972 vehicles also have no road fund licence to pay. Talk to owners about how costly your classic will be to run.

Join the owners club. A huge resource of expertise can be found in owners clubs. Not only will they have some of the best looked-after cars but they have huge amounts of knowledge on the subject of buying and running your chosen classic. They often have cheap insurance and parts schemes, too.

Get an anorak ! No really - buy some books on your chosen classic, read magazines and become a classic-car bore. Research on the Internet and visit Classic Car Shows to talk to owners. You can never know too much.

Select a range of examples available... and do not let the cash burn a hole in your pocket. There are thousands of cars for sale every day so be patient, if it is not there today, it will be soon.

Check the sellers location - are you prepared to travel to inspect and then collect the car if you win the auction. Do you need to consider the cost of having your new pride and joy collected by a car transport service or could you hire a trailer and collect it yourself ?

Check out the seller. Read all the feedback for the last three months, negative feedback should ring alarm bells Ring him/her and get to know about your seller. Why is it being sold etc. Things like "Why are you selling the car?", "Does it come with any spare parts?", "How long have you had it?", "Is there any rot?", "Does it have any history?" MOT's, receipts etc. can be helpful for the rebuild. If you know any specifics about the car you are enquiring about then ask any of the questions you feel you need answers for. It could save you a long drive and time away if you have the necessary information before you leave.

If a vehicle has less than 3 months MOT ask the seller if they would be willing to send the car for a fresh MOT - to correct an MOT failure could be expensive.

In the event of a car being sold as an MOT failure, ask the seller to specify the list of failures, then give your local garage a ring and ask them to give you a quote for the work that needs to be carried out. this will give you some idea of the costs involved in getting the vehicle through its MOT It will save you time and money in the long run, no point in bidding on a vehicle that is going to be to costly to put back on the road.

Keep copies of all emails sent and received between you and the seller. they will come in handy if a dispute or conflict arises over the description of the item or any promises the seller makes you.

Check if the seller is a private individual or a dealer - there are many people who buy junk from car auctions and then simply try to pass them off as their own vehicles for a quick profit.

If the seller is a trader passing themselves off as a private seller and they are willing to lie about their status what else are they willing to lie about!!

If the vehicle is being sold by a private seller, ask them how long they owned the vehicle for? is the logbook registered in their name and at their home address? if it is a genuine private sale, then the answers to the above questions should be yes!! if the answer is no to any of the above walk away.

A few examples of the excuses usually given by traders posing as private sellers for not having the vehicle registered in their name "I bought the car for wife/husband or family member and they don't like it" "insurance to high" (people will usually always get an insurance quote before buying a car)"wife/husband did not like the car" "too big or too fast" or "they failed their driving test" "I bought the car as a stop gap"

ring any bells? I am sure you have heard at least one of the above and I have heard them all.

Remember it is a Legal Requirement to register a vehicle in your name regardless of how long you intend on keeping the car.

A reputable trader should and will disclose the fact that they are a trader, remember if you buy through the trade they may have certain obligations to rectify any problems with the car.

In the event that you have bought the car without prior inspection, before you go to collect the car, print out the item page and take it with you. If the seller has mis- described the item in anyway, you will have proof in your hands to argue your case.

If buying from a private seller, always meet the seller at their home address which should match the address the car is registered at. If there is a problem at least you will have an address to go back to. Do not agree to "meet on the Tesco car park as it will be easier than finding my house "

When you go to collect the vehicle if you are unsure about the vehicle or the seller walk away. Never part with your hard earned money until you are satisfied.

Once you have handed your money over, you will not be able to get it back! If you have not viewed the car do not pay prior to collection, if you do you will have little choice but to take the car away or lose all your money.

What's the worst that can happen if you walk away? the seller will give you negative feedback. its better to have one negative feedback than a car which is going to cause you lots of problems and cost you time and money. You can always argue your case with the online auction site and you may get the feedback comment removed.

As a winning bidder you have a legal obligation to complete the transaction,however the seller has a greater obligation to be honest about themselves and the item they are selling. If the seller has misdescribed the vehicle and you do not complete the transaction they are very unlikely to take legal action against you for not completing the deal. Remember however if you simply change your mind and walk away without good reason the seller may take steps to recover the money from you.

The basic rules apply even if you are buying from a trader or private seller if something sounds to good to be true then it usually is !!!

I hope that you have found this guide helpful and that using this advice when purchasing a classic car online will help you to avoid the pitfalls and hopefully you will end up with a classic car to use and enjoy over the coming years.

Classic Cars - A Guide to Buying Online

How to Negotiate the Best Possible Price When Buying a Car

In previous articles, we have discussed the importance of doing thorough research before you make your way to the dealership. As a huge tip, bring that research along with you to the dealership or to the private sale individual. This makes you appear well informed and gives you a much better chance of attaining the best possible price on the vehicle. When people show up ill prepared and uninformed, the seller, either a salesman at a dealership or a private individual, has the upper hand and you have less leverage. Less leverage can mean you get 'taken for a ride' because you appear to not know what you're talking about. Dealerships especially love customers like that, as they can spin a tale about a vehicle that may or may not be entirely accurate. Also, be aware of dealership prices and upcoming or past sales or promotions - if you mention a past sale, you may be able to get the sale price, even if the promotion is over.

If you go to purchase a vehicle through a private sale, take a look at the surroundings. Is the car in the driveway of a million dollar house or a shabby environment? Though it is often unfair to prejudge a person, remember that you are in this to get the best car at the best price, so do what you need to do to analyze your surroundings and make a bid at the car that you think is appropriate.

We Buy Any Car

For better or worse, appearance can make a huge difference. If you look the part, you get treated as though you have more power in the deal. If you come to a test drive dressed too casually, a dealership may not take you seriously or a private sale individual may feel that you cannot make the financial requirements necessary to purchase the vehicle. Show up dressed nicely and well groomed.

Whether you go the dealer route or choose to pursue a vehicle through a private sale, do not reveal too much information about your situation. Avoid answering questions that may reveal how much income you earn. Stay away from questions you may be asked about why you are buying a vehicle or what you intend to do with your current vehicle. In this situation, less is more.

You will also want to be informed about the vehicle you are going to see. New cars aren't offered in only one spot - look at the prices of competitors. This is a great way to get some leverage. If you can say that "dealership xyz is offering the same truck for two thousand dollars less," you may very well get a great price break. But remember, dealers know their competitive landscape better than anyone, so avoid false claims or statements.

If you are buying a used car or truck privately, use online classifieds sites to price out similar vehicles with similar specs, like year and mileage. This may be the key to you getting the price you want. Also, look for discrepancies between the vehicle descriptions where you saw it advertised and the actual vehicle itself. If the ad stated that it had a power sunroof and you find that it has no sunroof at all, you may be able to knock off some of the price (unless a sunroof is a key determinant in you buying the car, then you may need to just pack up and go find another one).

No matter where you go, do not get overexcited about the vehicle you are looking at, even if it seems to be the perfect one. If you seem overly excited, you may come across as desperate, and that gives the bargaining leverage right back to the seller. Remain calm and have a carefree attitude. This lets the seller know that they need you (as much as you need them).

During the negotiation process, do not sign anything! Legally speaking, you shouldn't have to sign any documents until you have made the decision to purchase. Do not give out any financial information, like a blank cheque or credit card number.

Finally, make sure you are 100% comfortable with the vehicle. If there is something that is bothering you about the car or truck, like, a single cup holder instead of your preferred double from your old car, let the seller know. If they think you are not 100% satisfied, they may try to close the deal by lowering the price.

Always remember that you have the ultimate say in the deal. Do not allow yourself to be pressured, and understand that there are millions of cars and trucks for sale out there, so you have options

How to Negotiate the Best Possible Price When Buying a Car

4x4 Cars For Sale - The Buying Tips

The performance of a 4x4 car is simply unmatched that once you get hold of one, it is likely that you will never revert back to driving the normal RWD or FWD cars. They are very safe and reliable as the perfect companion if you are the adventurous type of individual who loves to explore countryside and unknown terrains where may have to get through unexpected challenges scubas muddy grounds or hilly areas

4x4 cars are perfect if you live in areas where the terrains are highly challenging. Just imaging climbing up a snowy hill with a regular car either with a FWD (front wheel drive or a RWD (rear wheel drive). But with a 4x4 car, this can be achieved easily and effortlessly. If you are curious to know just how powerful these cars are, just tune in to watch the World Rally Championship where dozens of cars compete in 15 rallies across different ground conditions-from the muddy paths, snowy, ice and gravel. Now you can get a good idea if just how great these cars are in getting you across the different terrains. If these sound exceptionally exciting for you, you may want to know a few things more about this miraculous engineering work before you start searching for 4X4cars for sale.

We Buy Any Car

Here are some tips to help you decide the best choice for you among the various 4X4 cars for sale.

Manual Locking Hub

Manual locking hub 4x4 cars come with a small piece of equipment that must be manually turned before the car is shifted into a 4x4 mode. This is the oldest kind of technology in making 4x4 cars and may not be the right choice if you plan on using the car to drive through snowy grounds. Imagine what would happen when you are out in the snowy region in freezing cold weather and the equipment gets stuck and won't budge when you desperately need to get into a 4x4 mode. Therefore if you need to buy a 4x4 car for sale that comes with this type of manual locking hub,

please check the functioning many times over to make sure it works fine before you pay.

Automatic Locking Hub

These types of 4x4 drives has the ability to engage the change into a 4x4 dome automatically but you need to stop the car before you can make the transition The car has to be stopped to engage and then back a little to disengage. If you get stuck in a muddy path when using this car, and it is impossible to move forward or backwards to disengage, then thus car isn't; suitable for the occasion at all. You need to complete the necessary distance to disengage the hub.

Shift on the Fly

This is the best kind of 4x4car. You simply need to push a button and the car will be engaged into a 4x4 drive mode even when it is still in motion. However, you need to slow down a little before you do this to avoid any problems to their performance of the car due to the sudden change, Different models have different requirement for the speed to use when engaging or disengaging so be sure to check it out.

4x4 Cars For Sale - The Buying Tips

Buying A Used Car - A Guide

If you need to buy a cheap used car but don't want to settle for the worst bomb on the car lot, you need to put together your own used car buying guide. Do your research and find out what make and model best suits your needs, where you can find the best deal and what you should know about the mechanics of an automobile. Some well timed shopping can save you a bundle when it comes time to negotiate a deal. In this article, we'll reveal the secrets used car salespeople don't want you to know and teach you how to take advantage of them to get the best used car deal.

Gathering information geared specifically toward makes and models that interest you will serve as the ultimate used car buying guide too. Read independent reviews, find out what the trade-in value is and check for recalls. The best place to start your research is on the manufacturer's web site. When you're actually looking at the vehicle in person, make sure the used car has never been in an accident, has not had the odometer rolled back and that its performance is up to standard. It's also important to know whether the car has ever been used as a taxi or rental car. Those vehicles take a beating and are a poor option for used cars. Stay away from cars with rust and holes, electrical problems and engine faults. You should also check the quality of the brakes, tires and the interior. The cost of any repairs needed should be deducted from the asking price of the vehicle. Make sure the dealership stands behind its quality assurance policies.

We Buy Any Car

When it comes to buying a used car, timing is everything so use your calendar as a used car buying guide. The best time to buy a used car or truck is on a Monday night. The end of the month is also a prime time to find a good used car deal. Car dealers, sales managers and salespeople have to make monthly quotas, so they are more easily persuaded to negotiate with customers late in the month. The end of the year is perhaps the best time to buy used cars cheap - especially if you're looking for a relatively new used car. This is because the new models are coming in and car dealers want to get rid of the last year's stock. At the end of the year, most sales managers are likely to accept almost any reasonable deal that you offer them.

Purchasing a used vehicle doesn't have to cost a lot of money. You can get a used car cheap if you're willing to take your time and assemble a used car buying guide that meets your needs. Invest some time comparison shopping and wait for just the right moment to approach a salesperson. Waiting can help you take advantage of a good sale or promotion because you'll be able to negotiate the price down even more. Patience is always a virtue - especially when you're hoping to scoop up a great used car at a great price.

Buying A Used Car - A Guide